Thursday, May 29, 2008

Tangier Island

Leaving Portsmouth, we traveled up the west coast of the Chesapeake to Deltaville. We spent the night there and having good weather we decided to cross to Tangier Island on the east coast of the Bay. The island is only 3 miles long and 1 mile wide and is pretty isolated--major shopping is done at towns on the mainland. The only industry on the island is crabbing and oyster harvesting although according to one of the locals, oystering has now been outlawed in the Bay. The waterway into the marina is lined with crab houses where the waterman keep their boats and separate the crabs to get them ready to ship to market. They are "waterman" rather than "fisherman" because they make their living on the water. A closer view of the town from the water....tour boats come here from both the east and west sides of the Bay twice daily. That's when the shops and restaurants open...when the tour boats come. After 5 or so, there is only 1 shop open...an ice cream store. There were a few gift shops and about 5 restaurants.
A closer look at the crab house and kind of boat used. The boats are about 40 feet long.
Here is a waterman sorting his crabs...these are Maryland blue crabs and they are now shedding their shells...it's soft shell crab season.
Leaving Parks marina, these signs advertize the restaurants...
Main street....note that they use golf carts here. Very few cars here---I think we saw three including the police car. Life is pretty laid back here...thought this was kind of a neat sign.
View of the street to the north end of the island...streets are just wide enough for one car.
Porch of the History Museum had these interesting checkerboad tables and pieces. Oyster shells are painted...
The yards here are fenced in and many, many had their dead buried in the yard..
This sign explains why.....
According to this sign, this island was discovered in 1608. Historical records are not verified about when it was actually settled, but the Crockett family is one of the originals. Interestingly, most of the current residents (now about 600, once was 1100) are decendents of the two original families....very common names here are Crockett, Pruitt, Parks, Dize. They have their own dialect which is described as Elizabethan cockney or maybe Cornish. It was more prevalent when they were talking with each other. Speaking with strangers, they tended to speak more slowly. We had the opportunity to listen to 3 local women while we were in the museum.

The History Museum was interesting. In one incident, the island had the opportunity to be the setting for a love story film starring Paul Newman. The council voted it down because the story had cursing, sex and drinking in it. I think it was "Time in a Bottle". No amount of persuasion could change their minds even though there was a nice financial incentive. The locals also feared that this would bring too many people who would have bad influence on their young girls.
This island is dry...no liquor sold anywhere. Here is their fire department. Many of the newer homes are modular or double wide which must be an interesting site being transported first across the bay and then down these streets !
Finally, despite this Verizon sign on the house (the one on the right in back)who we assumed to be a dealer, we had no cell phone or internet coverage. It's my understanding the locals use satellite TV,etc.