Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Elizabeth City to Dismal Swamp Visitor Center

Leaving Elizabeth City, we were on the winding Pasquotank River for about 18 miles before we got to the Dismal Swamp Canal. But this was very pretty and the winding curves added to the diversion. It was certainly more comfortable riding than on the Albermarle Sound the day before. Here we came to the division in the river leading to the Dismal Swamp canal. On the right side of the picture is the bridge near the lock.
The canal stretches for 22 miles and is absolutely straight except for one turn. This canal is the oldest continually operating canal in the United States. It was first surveyed in 1728. George Washington visited it in 1763 and then suggested that the swamp be drained and make a canal between the Chesapeake Bay and the Albemarle Sound. So a company was formed to drain the swamp, harvest the trees and turn the land into farmland.
He actually surveyed and directed the digging of the first 5 northern miles using slave labor who worked in the swamps in the water, often up to their shoulders.
Realizing then that this was such an enormous task, they decided instead to focus on lumbering and use the cypress trees for shipbuilding and the cedar for shingles. The lumber industry continued until the 1950's when all the timber had been harvested. The land was donated to the Nature Conservancy and eventually to the Department of the Interior for the creation of the Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge. Thus, all the trees in the present swamp (which is much smaller than the original 40,000 acres) are less than 50 years old.

Here is the southern lock called Southern Mills. Boats are raised 8 feet. The lockmaster tends both the lock and the bridge north of the lock. When we went through, he then went to the bridge and raised the bridge for us to pass. Locks and bridges are opened four times a day. This sign in the lock gives the mileage both north and south.
Here you can see the farmland now on the west side of the canal. We couldn't find out what this yellow crop was.
We then stopped for the night at the Visitor Center where we can tie up. There is a new education center on the west side of the canal (opened only 2 months) with a boardwalk into the swamp.
Here is the pontoon bridge which is usually open, but the operator opens it for anyone who goes across to the Education Center. The Visitor Center on the east side of the canal was closed for the day.
Here is the bridge completely closed so we could go across and return....actually we were the only ones there who walked across when we were there.
Here is a picture of the bridge in the open position and the Education Center in the rear.
There was one other boat tied up at the wall--a couple from New Jersey who we had met in Vero Beach. They joined us for a social time and gave us good tips for New York City. It was a nice quiet night.